Yes that CLICK BAIT above is me and yes it hurt.

This is a clip of me in my early 20’s surfing Pipeline. After a fractured knee cap, 7 staples in my head and a hematoma on my lower back, I learned the hard-way on where to take off.

This week we’re tapping into the best place to TAKE-OFF. How you take off (ON A WAVE), 100% determines the way you will finish your waves. 

I like to look at a wave in 3 SECTIONS. The Top being the lip, the Middle being the face of the wave and the Bottom being... well, the ”bottom” 😃. 

As you can see in the illustration below, the best place to take-off is that line between the Middle and the Top of the wave. The Middle and the Top are where ALL the speed is on the wave. You really want to learn this space well. If you’re able to take off here consistently, you are probably having a lot of speed once you stand up.

During the take-off you want to avoid two things:

  1. Taking off on the TOP OF THE LIPthe GIF above is a perfect illustration of “getting launched.” On that pipe wave, the wave was moving so fast, I got scared, stopped paddling, tried to stand up and well you know the rest of the story now.
  2. Taking off on the BOTTOM: this will leave you having zero to little speed and time to stand. It seems self explanatory but if you’re new to surfing, this diagram should bring some more clarity!

This weeks challenge:

1. If you’re in the advanced+ range, try to consistently take off inbetween the MIDDLE Third and the TOP Third of the wave. Bonus points for those who take off deeper on the peak (see the orange figures), stay in the MIDDLE (DON’T GO STRAIGHT TO THE BOTTOM) and do a turn off of the part of the wave that you are used to taking-off on. - Email me directly if you have questions on this.
2. f you’re still learning the pop-up, take-off dance:  practice visualizing these take-offs. When you’re out in the water, literally watch other people stand up and take personal note on what third of the wave they used to stand up. You got this!

Love hearing all the feedback, keep it coming!

- Matt

We are all praying and doing what we can for everyone on Maui. I have my ear to the ground on some great ways to help those that are in need. Attaching a link below. Please feel free to reach out to me personally if you have questions or ways to help.


GoFundMe for Maui Families



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