About 10 years ago, I got advice from Austin Ware on the North Shore of Hawaii. Austin is former pro surfer from San Diego CA, he was rated in the top 100 surfers in the world for a few years straight and he also coached me. In my early pro surfing years, I was constantly getting LAUNCHED by the lip on the North Shore, especially in heavy barrels. So he watched the best surfers that season and came up with one tip that CHANGED THE GAME for me forever. I still use it to this day - in ALL barreling waves, small like Nicaragua above and big tubes in Hawaii or at home. I remember Austin and I literally practicing this in the house daily.
The game changing tip was EAR TO THE FACE.
The goal was to keep your EAR to the wave. If you could press or try to press your ear to the face of the wave, you could almost make any drop.
Yes, seems simple but it gave me huge results.
These 3 reminders helped me make almost every steep drop I've had:
1. Early Under the Lip.
2. Ear to the Face.
3. Push on your Toe Side Rail.
In Detail:
1. Take Off Under the Lip: Reference the earlier newsletters on “Taking Off Behind the Peak”. Taking off behind the peak and under the FIRST section (remember there’s 3 sections) will put you in the prime spot on a steep/barreling wave. Make sure you paddle HARD and you’re riding enough a board with enough foam under the chest to create momentum for the steep take off.
2. Ear to the Face!: Now this is an over compensation. If you can somehow get your ear to the face of the wave, you might be the first ever to do it 😂. However this reminder and image will force you to stay as tight as possible to the barrel.
3. Back Knee In and Push Hard off Your Fins: Remember that you’ll never go faster than your fins. It’s time to engage your TOE side rail and engage all of your fins, staying TIGHT to the face of the wave.
Now this is no guarantee to make every drop. Please proceed with caution while trying this. These are just the best recommendations I've come across and they have helped give me some of my best rides.
Go get some!
Matt
PAGAN USA - UNDER CONSTRUCTION SURF CLUB
PAGANUSA.COM
