There are 3 POINTS that always run through my mind no matter where I paddle out.
1. Know your forecast. What is the swell doing? Just off of experience: 95% of the time, the North Shore of Oahu has purely East North East wind-swell in the summer time. That swell is caused by the trade winds and they blow almost all day long. Yes, it’s common sense that on a beach that faces directly north and west, east swell does not hit. However, I know at the bottom of Rocky point, there’s a really shallow piece of reef that runs into deep water and although the swell is ENE, I know the N part of the swell can wrap around the north shore and still provide a little wave. So… We headed there…
2. Where to lineup? I’m looking for the shallowest piece of reef, sandbar, and/or pile of rocks to surf off-of or on-top-of. When I find that, I find a marker on the shoreline to line up with. Sometimes having two markers to triangulate is even better. I do this prior to paddling out and then solidify it when I’m out there.
3. Have your equipment DIALED. This will be the first time I am pushing something sales related towards you in this newsletter. I have a TON of options, for all shapes and sizes of waves - email me directly (matt@paganusa.com) for a custom order and I’ll walk you through what you need and what will help you personally. I was having this exact conversation with my brother and a friend as we were riding softops on 2 foot windswell over 6 inches of shallow, coral reef. We had an absolute BLAST. No one out and wave count was HIGH. All because of these 3 anchor points.
I told my brother that these are the 3 points I look for no matter where I’m surfing. From 2ft to 10ft. I also told him that these 3 points NEVER change and they ALWAYS help me catch the best waves that come through in my sessions. The only constants that change are my plan of attack (since the ocean is always changing), my surfboard selection and my approach on a wave.
Ie: I’m not putting my hands up in the air, riding an 8’0 softboard on a 6ft-8ft day barreling day in Hawaii like I was last week. I am, however, finding my best plan from the forecast, knowing my lineup markers, and bringing the correct board(s) for the day.
My goal with this newsletter is always to help you catch quality waves and improve your surfing. If you have any questions, please feel free to reach out. Go get some this week!
Matt
PAGAN USA - UNDER CONSTRUCTION SURF CLUB
PAGANUSA.COM
